Well, our organized tour is over, and Toshen and I are finally on our own. We've been spending time visiting some of the smaller temples in and around Lhasa and revisiting the big ones. This time, however, we're doing it at our own pace, without being ushered hither and tither by a tour guide. This is also giving us the opportunity to feel the energy or vibe of each place. Another benefit is that it allows the monks to approach us for conversation - something that would never happen while part of a larger group!
There are monasteries everywhere in Lhasa. The Barkhor circuit goes around its most well known one: Jokhang Temple. Inside are two large courtyards, gilded roofs viewable from the second floor and roof (and all their many interconnected levels), and many monks living there. On the main floor is of course the circuit of prayer wheels around the perimiter of the monastery. This one is unusual in that it is still within the confines of the monastery - you need to enter the temple to get to it. There are many familiar aspects to Tibetan buddhist faith to other religions: candles everywhere for illumination and to highlight the décor and statues (but made of butter), sacred icons and images (statuary and wall paintings of buddhas, lamas, and compassionate or demonic protector deities), and the everpresent chanting, and praying. Instead of genuflecting, Tibetans spin hand-held prayer wheels and do prostrations.
There are several smaller temples around Barkhor - one is a simple room big enough to house a prayer wheel twice the height of a person. "Simple" is probably the wrong choice of words; the walls are ornately painted, hung with colorful thankas, and with altars and small statuaries piled shelf upon shelf around the room. Outside again, are the smaller brass wheels circumnavigating the building.
Down an alley is a larger, out of the way, monestary with what I found to be the most beautiful paintings of all monasteries I visited on the interior walls. Three monks live in attendance at this monastery, for one full year. They are from a nearby Gelupa monastery. Gelupa translates as "the most excellent sect," as it has political dominance other the other 3 sects. It is better known as the yellow-hat sect, and it is this order to which the Dalai Lama belongs. When I first arrived, I had to admire the two large prayer wheels mounted outside the entrance. When I went in, I was the only foreigner there, with only 1 visiting Tibetan (who quickly left). After walking clockwise, admiring the beautiful walls, I was invited to sit down, have some butter tea (it would have been inhospitable to refuse, unfortunately for me and my stomach), and we proceeded to talk - what I liked about Tibet, the Chinese, why I had come, if I wanted to learn Tibetan... The monk had learned English and was able to read parts of my Lonely Planet (LP) guidebook - I was very impressed with his command of the language - quite good for conversation. He had chosen to learn on his own, and by taking classes one of the few schools in Lhasa. Most Tibetans I had met that spoke English (please realize that very few spoke English), had learned in India, after escaping through the border. There is a Tibetan school in Daramasala in northern India, where the Dalai Lama and the exiled Tibetan government reside. I don't know how many Tibetans know English, and of those that do, if they learn primarily from within Tibet or in India.
Another day. I went back to Sera Monestary during afternoon. Now that I was no longer part of the organized tour itinerary, bands of tourists were far less common. I think all the guides stick to the same schedule as I would often see the same faces throughout our whirlwind tour!There were hardly any tourists, a pleasant happenstance- one small group of westerners, a large bus of Japanese monks (in grey robes and shaven heads) and Japanese pilgrims, and a busload of Chinese tourists.
Monasteries are great fun to explore... and get lost. If the door's open, just go right in. Usually you'll find something unexpected or beautiful tucked in a corner. In this case, I found a much needed toilet! No one else, and because it was a bit out of the way, not only deserted, but it smelled better than usual from lack of use! As with most asian countries, toilets here are of the squat variety, but usually over a steep incline piled high with, um, rather smelly things.
Sera seemed to be going through some extensive rebuilding and maintenance - I found two painters busily painting the wood beams in one room in bright and garish colors. The predominant colors are vivid orange, deep cobalt blue, bright spring green, a sunny yellow, and of course, gold to accentuate everything. By the main assembly hall, many woodworkers were shaving wood to be used for building. There are no lumber yards there, so cutting wood down to the right size and shaving them flat must be done on site. It's obvious that woodworking is not very developed here - the wood is was of inferior quality, with knots and knotches everywhere. When it is finally assembled, putty will be used to fill cracks and splits before painting begins.
Up on the roof, several rooms were being completely rebuilt. I saw them in their raw state, before any color had been applied. It was a bit of a relief to my eyes, as interesting as the primal colors usually are. When the three painters and builders up there discovered me poking around they curiously followed me around as I tried to look at what they were doing. As with the painters below, they wanted to see my camera, look through it, and take pictures. Luckily the excess paint on their hands didn't go on any important areas, like the lens or flash.
What I've learned: